Caving In
Caves don’t tend to leave room for indifference. For some people, they’re either the epitome of foreboding, claustrophobic terror, while for others they imbue a sense of real adventure, calling one deeper to a final frontier few have trod, to see sights few have seen.
South Africa is home to a lot of caves, many unexplored. From deep, labyrinthine systems with cathedral-like caverns, to little more than overhangs and shallow crevices adorned with rock art, our caves have fascinated people down the ages, and drawn us to excavate the secrets they hide.
Sterkfontein Caves
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Part of the Cradle of Humankind World Heritage Site just 50 km north of Joburg, untold archaeological and palaeoanthropological riches have been unearthed at the Sterkfontein Caves (www.maropeng.co.za).
They were discovered in 1896 when an Italian prospector unceremoniously blasted through the surface openings while searching for lime, which was needed for the extraction of gold on the Witwatersrand. Unfortunately, many of the cave’s incredible stalactites and stalagmites were removed or broken by mining activities, but nevertheless, the caves are still stunning and complex.
The caves are most famous for their fossil finds, and it is here where “Mrs Ples”, a pre-human skull dating back more than two million years, and “Little Foot’”, an almost complete skeleton dating back some three million years, were discovered. There are six chambers in the caves, and the largest of these is 91 m long and 23 m high. Fittingly, it’s called the Hall of Elephants. Experiencing it is something quite special, and guided tours are led deep into the caves every half hour, seven days a week. As cave tours go, it’s fairly easy going, though there are a few tight bits to get through. While you’re there, it’s worth spending time in the Maropeng Visitor Centre, housed in the striking Tumulus building, where you can explore the history of humankind and take in the 2,500 m2 hall of exhibits and the underground boat ride. Maropeng operates the Sterkfontein Caves tourist site. Only 10 km away, why not get a combined ticket and experience the best of both?
Cango Caves
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Arguably South Africa’s most famous cave system, the Cango Caves (www.cango-caves.co.za) near Oudtshoorn in the Western Cape are utterly enchanting. Home to evocative dripstone formations and vast halls, the caves go 5.3 km deep and their halls are unparalleled.
The Heritage Tour (which departs on the hour, every hour) will show you places that are scarcely believable. Van Zyl’s Hall is almost the size of a soccer field (it is 50 m wide, 90 m long and 18 m high in some places). Inside the hall are Cleopatra’s Needle, a 150,000-year-old stalagmite, and the Organ Pipes, a gorgeous dripstone/flowstone feature. Inside Botha’s Hall are two columns which soar towards the ceiling, and further on are the Rainbow, Bridal and Fairyland Chambers… We’ll leave you to discover why they’re named as such.
If you’re feeling brave, there’s also the Adventure Tour, which takes you further into the caves and involves scaling ladders, crawling through tight spaces, and squirming through steep shafts. It’s hard work, but well worth the effort for the awesome crystals and formations you’ll come across.
Sudwala Caves
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A lesser-known cave system, Sudwala Caves (www.sudwalacaves.co.za) in Mpumalanga are estimated to extend for more than 40 km. It’s a place of mystery and history: a Swazi prince took refuge here when fleeing from his brother; they were used as an ammunition store during the Second Boer War; and Paul Kruger’s gold bullion was supposedly stored here and then disappeared in the area, perhaps waiting to be discovered in some unexplored passage or cranny. Most fascinating is that there is a flow of fresh air, the source of which has yet to be found.One-hour tours take visitors 600 m deep and are suitable for people of all ages, although there is also the option of the five-hour Crystal Tour, which takes visitors through 2,000 m of the system – and includes a bit of crawling and squeezing – ending at a sparkling crystal chamber. Dominating the cave system is Owen Hall, a spectacular chamber 70 m in diameter and 37 m high. The acoustics are superb, and so the chamber has actually been used as a venue for orchestras and plays!
Cave Dwelling
If the idea of sleeping in a cave appeals to you, you can do this quite easily in the uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park, a World Heritage Site covering 242,813 hectares. Hiking in the ’Berg is spectacular enough, but overnighting in a cave is a truly memorable experience, with nothing separating you from the elements.
Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife (www.kznwildlife.com) has a list of caves in which you’re allowed to sleep, some of which are tiny and sleep only two, while others sleep up to 12 people. You’ll need to book in advance to ensure availability, and might have to share your cave with another hiking group, but the stars, sunsets and sunrises are spectacular, with views that go on seemingly forever. Just remember a few basic rules: no fires, don’t litter, and if you come across any rock art, respect it by looking at it only. And as with any visit to a mountainous region, dress for all weather conditions, as temperatures can plummet even in summer.
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