The Barrier of Spears
by Will Edgecum
Will Edgecum explores the soaring heights and the hidden mysteries of South Africa’s mighty peaks.
Few places live up to their names as well as the uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park. uKhahlamba means “Barrier of Spears”, while Drakensberg means “Dragon Mountains”. Stand anywhere below the escarpment looking up at these jagged, snow-tipped peaks, and the range is certainly a barrier, and if dragons existed, one can’t help feeling that this is where they would choose to live.
Extending over 243,000 hectares, the uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park is a World Heritage Site. It spans 150 km and has an average altitude of 3,000 metres. It’s a place of many moods – game grazes on alpine grasslands, forests hug steep valleys, rocky gorges tumble steeply, the wind whips past bare cliff faces, and on still mornings the view from up high seems to go on forever.Peace, Adventure and More
The views and scenery is the main attraction, and the area is most popular for its hiking trails, which attract everyone from novice amblers to hardcore trail runners. Whatever pace you’re comfortable with, the park offers a range of hiking trails on the upper and lower slopes leading past overnight caves, crystal clear pools, and forested clefts. Your best bet is to get a map of the trails on offer and to plan your route in advance. Most maps should include estimated walking times and difficulty, as well as what you can expect to see along the way. If you can tear your eyes away from the horizon, you should also keep an eye out for the 290 species of birds and 48 species of mammals in the park, including leopard, black-backed jackal, chacma baboons and the massive and magnificent eland.
If you can stand the icy waters, river and dam fly-fishing for trout is available throughout the area. Excellent river fishing is found at Injisuthi, Cobham, Giants Castle and Lotheni, while dam fishing can be done at Kamberg, Royal Natal and Highmoor.
If adrenaline is more your thing, the area is gaining popularity as a mountain biking destination. Cathedral Peak, Lotheni Valley and Giants Castle have some excellent trails which range in difficulty and length. As with any area with steep rock faces, abseiling and mountain climbing are also very popular, and during the winter months when the rivers swell and run quickly, white water rafting sees visitors tackle large rapids and fast flowing channels.Despite the remoteness and perceived lack of habitation, the area has a rich cultural history. The San roamed these slopes for eons and have left behind tens of thousands of paintings depicting their lives on rock faces and in caves all over the park. There’s an excellent rock art centre at Kamberg, with guided walks to Game Pass shelter, one of the richest repositories of rock art in the Drakensberg.
In a Tent or a SuiteThe area’s accommodation is as diverse as its scenery, with everything from caves to five-star hotels available in which to rest your weary head. Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife offers a fantastic range of campsites, caravanning, self-catering chalets, and luxury lodges at Chelmsford, Highmoor, Injisuthi, Lotheni, Monks Cowl and Royal Natal. They also have a list of caves available for overnighting in, but you’ll need to book these well in advance. Some caves sleep only two people, while others can accommodate large groups, but all give you an intimate experience with nature as you bed down in the dark and quiet, and wake up to the most spectacular dawn.
Sleeping in a cave isn’t for everyone, so if you want a comfortable or luxurious weekend away, there are loads of B&Bs, hotels and spas to choose from, from quaint country cottages to plush golf resorts. If you’ll be in the area for a few days, it’s worth driving into the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands, which is packed with restaurants, galleries, and craft shops selling everything from cheese and leather shoes to pottery and antiques.
Whatever your interests, the Drakensberg really is a place to unwind and let the stress seep out of you. Whether that means adventuring or sitting back in an armchair with a good book and a glass of wine, you’ve come to the right place.
Be Prepared
No one likes to think about safety precautions while on holiday, but as with any remote location, it pays to be prepared in the ’Berg if you’re going to be hiking or spending a fair amount of time outdoors.
· If you’re going to hike, tell someone where you’re going and stick to a pre-planned route.· Dress for all weather. Even in summer, things can get pretty frigid at high altitudes. If you’ll be camping or sleeping in a cave, take plenty of warm clothes and make sure that your sleeping bag is up to the task.
· The dry grassland and high wind means the risk of runaway fires is high. Be responsible and only make a fire in prescribed places.
· The weather can change extremely quickly, from bright sunshine to mist, snow or thunderstorms. Carry a warm jacket, torch, and emergency food, no matter the conditions or length of your hike.
Useful Contacts
Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife: Call +27 33 845 1000 or visit www.kznwildlife.com
Drakensberg Tourism: Call +27 36 448 1557 or visit www.drakensberg.org.za
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